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1. Soil Preperation:

Cucumbers require a sunny spot protected from strong winds for the best results. The soil should be rich and well drained. Dig a hole approximately one foot square and fill the hole with a mixture of compost or rotted manure and soil. Raise the soil into a mound. Each mound should be spaced 18 inches apart. Most households will require only a few such mounds to provide plenty of cucumbers for their use.

2. Sowing & Planting:

Sow three (3) seeds at a depth of one inch in the center of each mound and cover them lightly with soil. The seeds should be spaced a few inches apart from one another for the best results. Water the mound lightly and place a cloche over the spot to hasten germination. When the first true leaves appear on the new seedlings, be sure to cull them, leaving on the strongest seedling.

3. Looking After The Plants:

Pinch off the growth tip of the plants after they have developed 6 or 7 true leaves. This will encourage the production of side shoots. Leave these shoots to crawl upon the ground or train them to climb netting or a trellis. Be sure to keep the soil moist and water around the plants opposed to watering on the cucumber plants. Mist them lightly in hot weather dry weather to aid in pollenation. In the summer, place black plastic on the ground to around the plants prior to fruit production. This will raise the soil temperature, conserve moisture and inhibit the growth of weeds. Once the fruits begin to swell, feed the plants with a good fertilizer.

4. Harvesting The Cucumber Crop:

Do not try to grow record breaking cucumbers except for the sole purpose of doing so so with a single plant. Cucumbers should be harvested before they reach a maximum size to insure steady production. Harvest most varieties at 6-8 inches in length and approximately 4 inches in length for pickling or gherkin varieties. Lemon or Apple Cucumbers are best harvested at a size which is slightly larger than a duck’s egg. Always use a sharp knife or clippers to harvest the cucumbers opposed to pulling them off of the vine.

5. Storage:

Cucumbers are best stored in a plastic bag in the bottom of your refrigirator and will keep for approximately one week. Cucumbers are not reccomended for freezing, but can be best stored for the long term by pickling and canning them. Please see our “Tips” section for information about canning!

Website: http://www.seedfest.co.uk/tips/cucumber_growingtips.html

For more cucumber growing tips, press the links at the blogroll section.

Blogged by Brandon

Composting is nature’s way of recycling. Composting biodegrades organic waste. i.e. food waste, manure, leaves, grass trimmings, paper, wood, feathers, crop residue etc., and turns it into a valuable organic fertilizer.

Composting is a natural biological process, carried out under controlled aerobic conditions (requires oxygen). In this process, various microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, break down organic matter into simpler substances. The effectiveness of the composting process is dependent upon the environmental conditions present within the composting system i.e. oxygen, temperature, moisture, material disturbance, organic matter and the size and activity of microbial populations.

Composting is not a mysterious or complicated process. Natural recycling (composting) occurs on a continuous basis in the natural environment. Organic matter is metabolized by microorganisms and consumed by invertebrates. The resulting nutrients are returned to the soil to support plant growth.

Composting is relatively simple to manage and can be carried out on a wide range of scales in almost any indoor or outdoor environment and in almost any geographic location. It has the potential to manage most of the organic material in the waste stream including restaurant waste, leaves and yard wastes, farm waste, animal manure, animal carcasses, paper products, sewage sludge, wood etc. and can be easily incorporated into any waste management plan.

Since approximately 45 – 55% of the waste stream is organic matter, composting can play a significant role in diverting waste from landfills thereby conserving landfill space and reducing the production of leachate and methane gas. In addition, an effective composting program can produce a high quality soil amendment with a variety of end uses.

The essential elements required by the composting microorganisms are carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and moisture. If any of these elements are lacking, or if they are not provided in the proper proportion, the microorganisms will not flourish and will not provide adequate heat. A composting process that operates at optimum performance will convert organic matter into stable compost that is odor and pathogen free, and a poor breeding substrate for flies and other insects. In addition, it will significantly reduce the volume and weight of organic waste as the composting process converts much of the biodegradable component to gaseous carbon dioxide.

Factors on making compost:
Temperature
Temperature is directly proportional to the biological activity within the composting system. As the metabolic rate of the microbes accelerates, the temperature within the system increases. Conversely, as the metabolic rate of the microbes decreases, the system temperature decreases. Maintaining a temperature of 130°F or more for 3 to 4 days favors the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae and plant pathogens.

At a temperature of 155 degrees F, organic matter will decompose about twice as fast as at 130 degrees F. Temperatures above 155 degrees F may result in the destruction of certain microbe populations. In this case temperature may rapidly decline. Temperature will slowly rise again as the microbe population regenerates.

Moisture content, oxygen availability, and microbial activity all influence temperature. When the pile temperature is increasing, it is operating at optimum performance and should be left alone. As the temperature peaks, and begins to decrease, the pile should be turned to incorporate oxygen into the compost. Subsequently , the pile should respond to the turning and incorporation of oxygen, and temperature should again cycle upwards. The turning process should be continued until the pile fails to re-heat. This indicates that the compost material is biologically stable.

Composting microorganisms thrive in moist conditions. For optimum performance, moisture content within the composting environment should be maintained at 45 percent. Too much water can cause the compost pile to go anaerobic and emit obnoxious odors. Too little will prevent the microorganisms from propagating.

Particle Size
The ideal particle size is around 2 to 3 inches. In some cases, such as in the composting of grass clippings, the raw material may be too dense to permit adequate air flow or may be too moist. A common solution to this problem is to add a bulking agent (straw, dry leaves, paper, cardboard) to allow for proper air flow. Mixing materials of different sizes and textures also helps aerate the compost pile.

Turning
During the composting process oxygen is used up quickly by the microbes as they metabolize the organic matter. As the oxygen becomes depleted the composting process slows and temperatures decline. Aerating the compost by turning should ensure an adequate supply of oxygen to the microbes.

Composting Period
The composting period is governed by a number of factors including, temperature, moisture, oxygen, particle size, the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio and the degree of turning involved. Generally, effective management of these factors will accelerate the composting process.

Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio
The microbes in compost use carbon for energy and nitrogen for protein synthesis. The proportion of these two elements required by the microbes averages about 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen. Accordingly, the ideal ratio of Carbon to Nitrogen (C:N) is 30 to 1 (measured on a dry weight basis). This ratio governs the speed at which the microbes decompose organic waste.

Most organic materials do not have this ratio and, to accelerate the composting process, it may be necessary to balance the numbers.

The C:N ratio of materials can be calculated by using table 1 below.
Example, if you have two bags of cow manure (C:N = 20:1) and one bag of corn stalks (C:N = 60:1) then combined you have a C:N ration of (20:1 + 20:1 + 60:1)/3 = (100:1)/3 = 33:1

Composting Methods

Hot Composting
Hot composting is the most efficient method for producing quality compost in a relatively short time. In addition, it favors the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae and pathogens. While hot composting, using the windrow or bin method, requires a high degree of management, hot composting, using the in-vessel method, requires a lesser degree of management.

Cold Composting
This method is ideal for adding organic matter around trees, in garden plots, in eroded areas etc. The time required to decompose organic matter using this method is governed, to a large extent, by environmental conditions and could take two years or more.

Sheet Composting
Sheet composting is carried out by spreading organic material on the surface of the soil or untilled ground and allowing it to decompose naturally. Over time, the material will decompose and filter into the soil. This method is ideally suited for forage land, no-till applications, erosion control, roadside landscaping etc. The process does not favor the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae, pathogens etc. and composting materials should be limited to plant residue and manure. Again, decomposition time is governed by environmental conditions and can be quite lengthy.

Trench Composting
Trench composting is relatively simple. Simply dig a trench 6 – 8 inches deep, fill with 3 – 4 inches of organic material and cover with soil. Wait a few weeks and plant directly above the trench. This method does not favor the destruction of weed seeds, fly larvae and pathogens and the composting process can be relatively slow.

Loading the Bin / Windrow
Place the raw materials in layers using a balance of high carbon (moist) and low carbon (dry) materials. Each layer should be no more than four to six inches in depth. Spray each layer with a light mist of CBCT Stock Solution (Mix CBCT Concentrate and water at a rate of 1:200). This will initiate and accelerate the composting process and eliminate odors).

Procedure:

Step 1. Start with a 4 to 6 inch layer of coarse material set on the bottom of the composter or on top of the soil.

Step 2. Add a 3 to 4 inch layer of low carbon material.

Step 3. Add a 4 to 6 inch layer of high carbon material.

Step 4. Add a 1 inch layer of garden soil or finished compost.

Step 5. Mix the layers of high carbon material, low carbon material, and soil or compost.

Repeat steps 2 through 5 until the composting bin is filled (maximum 4 feet in height). Cap with dry material.

Loading the Vessel (in-vessel composting)
To accelerate the composting process, simply mix the high carbon and low carbon materials together before placing them in the composter. Add the mixture to the composter in small batches, spraying each batch with a light mist of water or CBCT stock solution.

Adding material during the composting process
Ideally, new materials should be added to the composting system during turning or mixing. Generally, the addition of moist materials accelerates the composting process while the addition of dry materials slows the process.

About Compost
Finished compost can be classified as a 100% organic fertilizer containing primary nutrients as well as trace minerals, humus and humic acids, in a slow release form. Compost improves soil porosity, drainage and aeration and moisture holding capacity and reduces compaction. Compost can retain up to ten times it’s weight in water. In addition, compost helps buffer soils against extreme chemical imbalances; aids in unlocking soil minerals; releases nutrients over a wide time window; acts as a buffer against the absorption of chemicals and heavy metals; promotes the development of healthy root zones; suppresses diseases associated with certain fungi; and helps plants tolerate drought conditions.

Applications
Compost can be used in a variety of applications. High quality compost can be used in agriculture, horticulture, landscaping and home gardening. Medium quality compost can be used in applications such as erosion control and roadside landscaping. Low quality compost can be used as a landfill cover or in land reclamation projects.

Website: http://ecochem.com/t_compost_faq2.html

Blogged by Brandon

What is composting?
Decomposition of plants and other once-living materials. Nature’s recycling process.
Where does it happen naturally?
Leaves, dead bugs, etc.. drop to the forest floor; begin to decay with the help of microorganisms, worms and
insects and the decaying material is broken down into nutrients. They “return to the soil” after their life. Plant roots
reclaim these nutrients from the soil and use them to help the plant grow. When this plant dies and falls to the ground
the process begins again. “Think about Tuckahoe Park next to the school. For how many years do you think the leaves
have been falling and the insects dying? So where did they all go? Shouldn’t the natural litter be piled high by now?
Why not?”
Why is it important for us to compost?
landfills, incinerators
30% of waste in Virginia is yard waste
During the fall, 60-75% of waste is yard waste
How can we make compost ourselves?
Goal: create an inviting environment for microbes to thrive- they’ll do your composting for you.
Composting Recipe:
Ingredients:
Air- Turn the pile once a week
Water- Keep it moist (like a wrung-out sponge) 50% wet
Food- Carbon-rich waste (“brown stuff”): leaves, straw, coffee grounds, …
Nitrogen-rich waste (“green stuff”): grass clippings, weeds
Mix: either lasagna style (layered) or chili style (mix it all together)
Cook it:
Pressure and decomposition creates heat. Collective body heat of millions of microbes busy digesting the pile.
Microbes thrive at temperatures 70 to 160 degrees (F). When pile reaches 140 degrees, turn it.
Finished:
When product is dark in color, earthy in smell, a bit crumbly to the touch and you can not recognize the
original ingredients.
Extensions:
1. Make a mini compost bag. In groups, students choose a sample of carbon-rich and nitrogen-rich materials to
put in a Ziploc bag. Follow the directions above to mix them and moisten them. Add a bit of soil, mix.
Put them aside and observe the changes each day or each week for awhile. Use magnifying glasses to notice the
breaking down of the elements until finally they are no longer recognizable.
2. Discuss biodegradable vs. non-biodegradable items. Add some lunch box items to the mini compost bag. Make
predictions about what will happen to them. Which ones will remain in the same form one month ore year from
now? ** Try burying items outside and checking to see which ones decomposed at the end of the year.

Website: http://www.arlington.k12.va.us/schools/tuckahoe/schoolyard/village/Composting.pdf

Blogged by Brandon

Cucumbers do best in loose, sandy loam soil but can be grown in any well drained soil. Remove rocks, large sticks and trash before preparing the soil. Leave fine pieces of plant material such as dead grass and small weeds. They will help enrich the soil when turned under. Spade the soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. This is about the depth reached by most shovels or spading forks. Turn each shovel of soil completely over so all plant materials are covered with soil.

blogged by Jordon

As the same as the ‘Basic Cucumber Growing Tips’, the ‘Arrangement of Cucumbers in the Garden’, ‘Cucumber Diseases and Pests’ and the ‘Pollination and Harvesting Tips’, posts were all posted by Sheng Yao and Jun Kong.

These information were all found on

http://www.cucumbergrowingtips.com/cucumbergrowingtips.html

You can also visit

http://www.cucumbergrowingtips.com/index.html

for information on types of cucumbers, cucumber troubleshooting, cucumber growing products and cucumber resources.

The same cucumber vine has both male and female flowers. The male flowers, also called the staminate flowers, develop first. These will quickly grow and drop without bearing fruit. The next flowers that grow will be a combination of both male and female (pistillate) flowers. This is when pollination takes place. Take into account that some cucumbers available today require special pollination and planting.

Remember that there is a need to stimulate the presence of bees in your garden to properly pollinate your vines. Using chemical pesticides can kill off the bees and prevent proper pollination. Consider a natural form of pest control instead.

Cucumbers are generally ready to harvest after about 60 days after planting. When to harvest also depends on the variety of cucumber that your grow.

The larger cucumbers grow, the more likely they are to loose their flavor or even become bitter. If your cucumbers begin to turn yellow, they are probably past due to harvest.

When you harvest, carefully inspect your plants (without stepping on the vines) and cut the stem about 3/8 of an inch above the cucumber itself. Once the cucumbers start appearing, harvest frequently to maximize the quality of the fruits.

Cucumbers unfortunately suffer from a variety of pests and diseases. Aphids, pickle worms, mites, and cucumber beetles are common pests tp be seen in the garden. Diseases needed to look out for are anthracnose, powdery mildew, downy mildew, bacterial wilt, and angular leaf spot.

The cucumber beetle is a particularly nasty pest that attacks plants early and also spreads bacterial wilt. Look for this pest as seedlings emerge. Also look for signs of bacterial wilt early on. Plants infected with bacterial wilt will droop and eventually die.

It is a recommend to use a natural pest control method to treat problems with your cucumbers. If you use chemical pesticides, you may be harming the bees that will fertilize your vines. Chemical pesticides can also harm other beneficial insects and soil organisms.

Cucumber starter plants are to be grown indoors up to 2 weeks before the process of planting. Remember to wait until all risk of frost has passed to transplant. It is also possible to plant seeds directly in the garden. Arrange the garden in small hills and plant around 4 seeds per hill. Separate the seeds by about 3-4 feet. The gardener can also ground the cucumbers in rows. Space the rows about 6 ½ feet apart, with the seeds about 2 ½ feet apart in the rows. Remember that some cucumbers varieties are suitable for container gardens.

Cucumbers are subtropical plants that require full sun and a decent amount of growing space in a garden (take this into account). If there is a short on space, vertical structures such as trellises can help make up for limited space in a garden. There are also a number of dwarf varieties if cucumbers are grown in containers.

Cucumbers are most comfortable when the average temperatures are around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Plant the cucumbers in the late spring or early summer when there is no risk of frost. Even a light frost can kill these plants.

Cucumbers are not picky about soils. However, make sure the soil is well-draining and has a pH of around 6.5. Add plenty of organic compost to your garden soil before growing cucumbers. This will ensure that they have the proper nutrients to grow strong and healthy cucumbers. Additionally, the soil will have the proper drainage to let your plants thrive when compost is added. Adding organic compost is really one of the best ways to improve both soil drainage and balance soil pH.

To further increase the productivity of the soil, it is recommend that you use an organic fertilizer and a Mycorrhizal root builder. These natural products will boost the plants’ immune systems and make them more resistant to pests and diseases. Mycorrhizal fungi are natural, beneficial fungi that create a sort of second root system for the plants, allowing them to make better use of water and nutrients. Use the Mycorrhizal root builder early in plant development, but wait to fertilize the plants until the flowers appear. To maximize fruit growth, apply the minimal amount of fertilizer needed.

Applying mulch to the garden can also help your cucumbers. The mulch will retain soil moisture, keep weeds from establishing, and can add nutrients to the soil. Use at least 4 inches of an organic mulch such as wood chips or bark. A permeable synthetic weed barrier can also help to retain moisture and keep weeds out of the garden.

This is the ‘Basic Cucumber Growing Tips’ posted by Sheng Yao.

Informations from:

http://www.cucumbergrowingtips.com/cucumbergrowingtips.html